In and around San Pedro Sula, from Omoa to Lake Yojoa

And we’re back! We’ve been thinking about the blog for weeks now, mentioning to each other nearly every day a fun new detail we want to share with everyone, not to mention the endless photos we want to include. Just when we felt we were brimming with the motivation to sit and write…we got to Utila, land of the carefree and careless. This island charms with its ability to effortlessly strip its visitors of all responsibility and productivity, leaving only time and desire for leisure and libation. So let’s start with San Pedro Sula, where we spent a week with Fernando’s cousin before heading to the coast and losing all of our willpower.

           San Pedro is a very affluent and organized city compared to Tegucigalpa. Streets are numbered and well-paved, mansions are plentiful, and very little garbage pollutes the main areas (unlike, sadly, most of the country). Businesses abound in SPS, including factories, malls and restaurants, making it Honduras’s busiest and most prosperous industrial city. We arrived on a weekend and were taken out to a few local bars and restaurants, enjoying everything from typical pupusas to fresh tuna sashimi. We were also invited to spend Sunday at a friend’s house near the coast, about 45 minutes from the city. We arrived early in Omoa, stopping once as we neared the coast to buy some freshly baked coconut bread with a brown sugar and shaved coconut filling (heavenly!). We arrived at our friend’s beach house and stood in awe of their beautiful property: lush, expansive, oceanfront, and filled with brightly colored hibiscus and birds of paradise. Crocheted hammocks and wooden rocking chairs line the back porch beside a clear pool, offering magnificent views of the sun setting beyond the sea. We sat for a while and swayed with the banana and coconut trees, basking in the warmth of the sun and in the bounty of our blessings. Fernando befriended a local fisherman on the shore who was kind enough to lend us another line and some bait. We eventually caught one tiny fish and conceded shortly after. In the evening we enjoyed a typical dinner outdoors before heading back to SPS for the night.

            After doing some reading and receiving several recommendations, we decided to spend a couple of nights in a small town near beautiful Lake Yojoa in an effort to evade the city once again. The D&D is a great little spot that Fernando and I love and highly recommend to anyone visiting the area. It’s a cozy hostel tucked away in Los Naranjos about halfway between San Pedro and Tegus, featuring a garden café and its own microbrewery (the only one in Honduras). The cottages are nearly hidden under the thick leaves of low-lying fruit trees whose branches are home to an extensive variety of local bird species.

The bus ride to Los Naranjos was nothing short of a wild adventure. As it was only 40 lempiras per person ($2), we decided to take El Mochito bus, an old yellow school bus transformed into a recklessly driving Central American chicken bus. There weren’t actually any chickens on this particular trip, but there were many colorful passengers carrying and selling everything from sodas and plantain chips to woven sombreros and ginseng supplements. With the windows down and the strong, stale smell of sweat blowing in our faces, the driver sped relentlessly around every curve, stopping frequently to drop off and collect riders and their merchandise. Although it wasn’t the most enjoyable experience, it was without a doubt interesting and a very practical way to travel and I’m sure there are many more similar rides in store for us on this trip.

We spent our first day hiking through Los Naranjos Eco Archeological Park, where tropical foliage, Lenca culture, and mosquitos reign and a long boardwalk opens up to panoramic views of the lake and surrounding mountains. After hours of walking and admiring our surroundings, we returned to the D&D for some quiet relaxation, which we achieved by sampling all of their tasty craft beers and reading Lonely Planet by candlelight. Night fell and we found ourselves shifting from the table to a few nearby hammocks, alternating happily between blueberry and amber ales and a rich porter brewed with local Santa Barbara coffee (the BEST coffee EVER). This went on for several blissful hours and we eventually sauntered hand in hand back to our tiny room, slipping into bed with a thin smile on our lips, letting the crickets sing us to sleep.

            We were up early the next morning rested and ready for adventure. Walking out to the main road, we took a taxi a few kilometers north to Pulhapanzak, a 43-meter waterfall that lies just above Rio Lindo and flows into the lake. The recent heavy rains caused the falls to become especially wide and forceful, making the scene all the more impressive and picturesque. We explored the park briefly and climbed down to a small lookout nearer to the base, where a steady mist rained down through the sunshine and over us. Fernando went with a local guide on a slippery, muddy hike toward the base of Pulhapanzak, where they climbed cliffs and rocks, finally crossing the river to enter a small cave just behind the cascade. After his adventure we sat in the grass under the sun sharing fruit and drying off a bit before our walk back to the main road.

            Visiting Lake Yojoa is usually associated with one particular thing for most Hondurans: enjoying incredibly fresh fish for lunch. Naturally, this is exactly what we did. Of all the mouth-watering foods we’ve encountered on this trip, the plate we devoured that day by the lake has been unparalleled. We ordered a typical plate to share: a long and fat fish (seriously bigger than my head), just caught and fried whole to perfection; thinly sliced plantains with a crisp bite and smooth inside; cabbage salad with tomatoes, onion, cilantro and plenty of lime; and enough corn tortillas to send us into a juicy fish taco coma. By the time we finished our meal, we were licking our fingers and staring at a translucent skeleton. More than satisfied, we walked along the road toward the hostel longing for a nap when we came up to a small green house with a sign reading: Boats for Rent. A few minutes later we were unexpectedly heading back toward the river, oars in hand and ready for a new perspective of the lake. We rowed down the river for about an hour and finally into the glassy waters of the lake, spotted with tiny islands and fishing boats. We rested a moment, drifting with the current as we watched people fishing and swimming. We alternated as we rowed back up the river, eager to take a cool shower and enjoy our last night at the D&D.
            We returned to San Pedro for another couple of nights before leaving for Utila, the smallest and most laid-back of Honduras’s three Bay Islands. We took a private bus to La Ceiba, sleeping the entire trip and arriving in time to catch the morning ferry. The ride was a little choppy but thankfully very brief, and we arrived in Utila early enough to fully enjoy the day.

Just need to write a bit more on our island adventures and I'll be filling you guys in soon! So much to tell, so few places with free wi-fi... :)

Valle de Angeles, Santa Lucia and Tegucigalpa before our departure

We’ve been enjoying ourselves in the city so far, catching up on hours of dearly missed rest and relaxation. Fernando has been sick with a cold but is now in full recovery thanks to lots of honey and lime, herbal tea, our well-stocked homeopathic kit (special thanks to a dear friend), and plenty of his mama’s chicken soup. It’s actually pretty nice staying indoors these days as the weather’s been warm and rainy and the city is relatively polluted and overcrowded, most notably during the day with the heat and all the afternoon traffic.

Last Thursday everyone got together for an evening barbeque out on the patio. We sat around sharing food and mojitos, taking in the view of the city lights in the cool night air. We enjoyed steamed white fish, chorizo with homemade chimichurri, fresh guacamole (a must-have), grilled tortillas, and sweet roasted yellow peppers topped with melted cheeses. After hours of laughing, eating and drinking, we all eventually gathered around the dying embers of the grill to warm our toes while sipping on Desi’s “skinny bitches” (creamy and sweet oat milk with vodka: SO GOOD). Fernando eventually used a steak knife to chop some cedar wood that was lying randomly nearby and built us a decent fire that lasted well into the night.

On Friday night we went out with some of the family for a bite to eat at Pisco y Nazca, a new Peruvian restaurant serving juicy, flavorful ceviche and playful cocktails. We enjoyed a variety of raw fish, each drenched in its own tasty sauce, from the classic creamy yellow pepper huancaina, to a lighter ginger lime broth. We began the night with carefully crafted Pisco Sours, which were the perfect balance of frothy, bitter and sweet. After a couple rounds the night led us a few streets over to Fernando’s friend’s bar, Habia Una Vez (whose name, by the way, we ALWAYS confuse with our Miami favorite, Hoy Como Ayer!), where we met up with a few of Fernando’s longtime friends.

By Saturday we were ready to get outdoors and explore someplace more rural. We left the chaos of the bustling, smoggy city behind us, and made our way up a winding mountain road lined with strutting horses and local women selling freshly grilled ears of corn (love how it’s referred to as elote loco). Lightly colored homes speckled the horizon, whose shades of green and brown are countless and breathtaking. Arriving in Valle de Angeles, rows of outdoor restaurants and open shops displaying local crafts were the first to greet us (as well as a few stray cows and horses). People travel from all over to visit Valle, as its unique crafts are locally made and renowned across the country. Shops are filled with beautiful art: hand carved wooden chests; hammocks; pottery of all sizes and colors; paintings and sculptures by local artists; and all sorts of leather clothing and furniture. We strolled around for a bit taking in the cool mountain air, watching kids play soccer in the street while vendors looked on from their hammocks. 

Then hunger settled in and we suddenly remembered why we had come all this way. Although there is plenty to enjoy in this laidback town, most visitors familiar with the area arrive for one specific reason: PUPUSAS! Think of an arepa, but a million times more delicious. We walked over to our favorite spot (the best in town, actually), a hole-in-the-wall eatery with open windows and an outdoor grill where ladies pound out freshly ground corn masa to be used for our lunch. The pupusas were brought to the table hot and oozing crispy quesillo edges (a salty, creamy, chewy white cheese similar to mozzarella, but with way more personality), making us all feel especially blissful as we gobbled them up with chili infused onions and cabbage. But our trip to Valle wouldn’t be complete without a proper local dessert. Topped with fresh fruits and a drizzle of condensed milk, minutas are Honduran snow cones. Cool and light, they make a perfect afternoon snack. We finished our treats smiling and satisfied, ready for another brief walk before departing for Santa Lucia.

Santa Lucia sits higher up the mountain and is much quieter and local than Valle, yet just as warm and impressionable. Each of the historic town’s steep cobblestone streets holds an awesome view of the surrounding mountains, which are literally comparable to a Bob Ross painting. The peaks spread out into the horizon in various pastel tones, eventually fading hazily into the light of the sun. There really aren’t words to describe how remarkable the outlook is from the town’s center, and even photos can’t quite capture its beauty. I think Fernando and I have both come to realize that this mountainous landscape is something we were definitely missing (and longing for) while living in Miami. We sauntered around Santa Lucia for a while longer enjoying the scenery, and eventually made our way back to the urban pandemonium.

We’ll be leaving Tegucigalpa tomorrow afternoon as we make our way toward the coast, where we’ll spend two weeks island hopping, scuba diving (my first time!), and visiting close friends. Our first stop is in San Pedro Sula, where we’ll stay with family for about a week. We have unpacked and rearranged our backpacks too many times to count, and are finally ready to begin the first leg of our expedition. Bring it on!

First Week in CA

Homemade pupusas

Fresh peeled coconut

It’s been a great week so far here in Tegus, spent mostly with family, relaxing and enjoying how time seems to have slowed to a crawl for us. We’ve been waking each morning to the light sounds of the spinning fan and the breeze drifting in through the open window, not to mention the barking of stray dogs and the morning call of neighborhood roosters. We also hear the calls of street vendors, selling plump, ripe avocados and papayas as big as my head. Fernando’s mom, Carolina, has been nothing short of an angel with us, preparing an elaborate breakfast each morning, complete with hot tea, guanabana juice freshly squeezed from her tree, homemade refried beans, fresh cream and salty cheeses, hardboiled eggs, fresh papaya, and let’s not forget an amazingly creamy, tangy guacamole made from her own limes and the same plump avocados sold to her by the singing vendor in the early morning. After a quick warm shower, we’ve been out the door and off to visit his grandmothers and cousins, which usually means enjoying a cup of rich black coffee while the smell of lunch cooking fills the room.

We’ve been laying low in the evenings, but Saturday night was a great exception as Fernando was scheduled to headline a big annual party, ElectronikZone Fest. We set out with his sister and sister-in-law, meeting up with several of his longtime friends. It was warm inside, so we hung around the entrance in the cool night air talking amongst ourselves until our favorite DJ went on, then it was time to make our way to the front row to dance and shout our hearts out with all his other fans (trust me, he has plenty of them here). After a successful set, we mingled for a while then headed to a friend’s house, where we spent countless hours playing Rock Band (namely The Beatles!), singing painfully loud and out of key. Needless to say we found ourselves crawling into bed as the roosters welcomed the rising sun, and were all left without a voice the following day.

ElectronikZone Fest

Luis Fer

Tati

Last night we made our way to Fernando’s brother’s place to share a few drinks and visit his niece and nephew, who are 5 and 7, respectively. Not only are they absolutely adorable, but also are extremely creative, polite and affectionate. They spent most of the evening working on their drawings for us and wouldn’t let Tia Marisa or Tio Fernando walk into the room for fear their surprise for us would be ruined. After presenting us with elaborate images of butterflies and Spiderman, we cuddled with them for a while and they made us promise to bring them new crayons to create more drawings for us to put up on our (nonexistent) fridge. Have I mentioned how much we LOVE these kids?!

Mami Telma

After a “lighter” breakfast of sweet oatmeal and green tea this morning, we headed a few miles outside of the city to visit Fernando’s grandmother, who welcomed us, as always, with black coffee and sweets. Her small house sits high on a mountain, surrounded by clucking chickens, skinny stray dogs, and roaming brown cows. We sat with her a while, taking photos and sharing details of our Miami life. On our way back home, we parked on a street overlooking the city, and stood for a while snapping photos and taking in the views of both the surrounding mountains and the busy city below.

Tegus outlook

Wild goat

Homebrewed coffee

Home Sweet Home!

After years of dreaming, planning, working and wishing, we have finally arrived! We have waited for this day to come for a very long time, and are excited to see what lies ahead of us on this amazing journey through Central America. After selling our things, leaving our day jobs, and basically disconnecting ourselves from our Miami lives, we are more than prepared to make our way through the beautiful landscapes that surround us. For the next six months, from Guatemala to Panama, we're setting out to explore Mayan ruins, coastal Caribbean beach towns, some of the best scuba diving sites in the world,  active volcanoes, lush jungles, and fertile mountains rich with coffee and fruit. 

Our flight was short and sweet; the two hours sped by as we enjoyed endless mimosas and fresh halibut in our comfy seats. The landing at Toncontin is never entirely smooth though considering the short runway and the fact that the city's airport essentially lies within a valley surrounded by hazy mountains. You can hear the sighs of relief as the wheels touch down and the plane finally comes to an abrupt halt.

Tegucigalpa at night-view from Fernando's backyard

We arrived in Tegucigalpa, Honduras yesterday afternoon and were met by a cool breeze and Fernando's loving family. We drove to his parents's house where they prepared fresh lemonade and tacos (Carolina makes a delicious potato and tomato puree just for me!), and soon more friends and family joined. We spent the evening watching old family videos and sharing drinks (vodka and apple juice mmm), reminiscing on their childhood and good times. 

We spent the day today lounging around the house and recovering from a cold, sipping tea and catching up online. One of the things we love about being here is that you can buy fresh foods from home. People drive and walk by selling handmade tortillas and freshly baked pan de coco (coconut bread, which is AMAZING!), and all you have to do is walk outside with a few lempiras and you have some fresh, yummy food at your doorstep. It's very cool out tonight, and we were sitting out back on the patio earlier admiring the view of the lights of the city under a bright grey moon.

Selling pan de coco in the street