Thursday, July 19, 2012

Valle de Angeles, Santa Lucia and Tegucigalpa before our departure



We’ve been enjoying ourselves in the city so far, catching up on hours of dearly missed rest and relaxation. Fernando has been sick with a cold but is now in full recovery thanks to lots of honey and lime, herbal tea, our well-stocked homeopathic kit (special thanks to a dear friend), and plenty of his mama’s chicken soup. It’s actually pretty nice staying indoors these days as the weather’s been warm and rainy and the city is relatively polluted and overcrowded, most notably during the day with the heat and all the afternoon traffic.

Last Thursday everyone got together for an evening barbeque out on the patio. We sat around sharing food and mojitos, taking in the view of the city lights in the cool night air. We enjoyed steamed white fish, chorizo with homemade chimichurri, fresh guacamole (a must-have), grilled tortillas, and sweet roasted yellow peppers topped with melted cheeses. After hours of laughing, eating and drinking, we all eventually gathered around the dying embers of the grill to warm our toes while sipping on Desi’s “skinny bitches” (creamy and sweet oat milk with vodka: SO GOOD). Fernando eventually used a steak knife to chop some cedar wood that was lying randomly nearby and built us a decent fire that lasted well into the night.

On Friday night we went out with some of the family for a bite to eat at Pisco y Nazca, a new Peruvian restaurant serving juicy, flavorful ceviche and playful cocktails. We enjoyed a variety of raw fish, each drenched in its own tasty sauce, from the classic creamy yellow pepper huancaina, to a lighter ginger lime broth. We began the night with carefully crafted Pisco Sours, which were the perfect balance of frothy, bitter and sweet. After a couple rounds the night led us a few streets over to Fernando’s friend’s bar, Habia Una Vez (whose name, by the way, we ALWAYS confuse with our Miami favorite, Hoy Como Ayer!), where we met up with a few of Fernando’s longtime friends.

By Saturday we were ready to get outdoors and explore someplace more rural. We left the chaos of the bustling, smoggy city behind us, and made our way up a winding mountain road lined with strutting horses and local women selling freshly grilled ears of corn (love how it’s referred to as elote loco). Lightly colored homes speckled the horizon, whose shades of green and brown are countless and breathtaking. Arriving in Valle de Angeles, rows of outdoor restaurants and open shops displaying local crafts were the first to greet us (as well as a few stray cows and horses). People travel from all over to visit Valle, as its unique crafts are locally made and renowned across the country. Shops are filled with beautiful art: hand carved wooden chests; hammocks; pottery of all sizes and colors; paintings and sculptures by local artists; and all sorts of leather clothing and furniture. We strolled around for a bit taking in the cool mountain air, watching kids play soccer in the street while vendors looked on from their hammocks. 
Then hunger settled in and we suddenly remembered why we had come all this way. Although there is plenty to enjoy in this laidback town, most visitors familiar with the area arrive for one specific reason: PUPUSAS! Think of an arepa, but a million times more delicious. We walked over to our favorite spot (the best in town, actually), a hole-in-the-wall eatery with open windows and an outdoor grill where ladies pound out freshly ground corn masa to be used for our lunch. The pupusas were brought to the table hot and oozing crispy quesillo edges (a salty, creamy, chewy white cheese similar to mozzarella, but with way more personality), making us all feel especially blissful as we gobbled them up with chili infused onions and cabbage. But our trip to Valle wouldn’t be complete without a proper local dessert. Topped with fresh fruits and a drizzle of condensed milk, minutas are Honduran snow cones. Cool and light, they make a perfect afternoon snack. We finished our treats smiling and satisfied, ready for another brief walk before departing for Santa Lucia.



Santa Lucia sits higher up the mountain and is much quieter and local than Valle, yet just as warm and impressionable. Each of the historic town’s steep cobblestone streets holds an awesome view of the surrounding mountains, which are literally comparable to a Bob Ross painting. The peaks spread out into the horizon in various pastel tones, eventually fading hazily into the light of the sun. There really aren’t words to describe how remarkable the outlook is from the town’s center, and even photos can’t quite capture its beauty. I think Fernando and I have both come to realize that this mountainous landscape is something we were definitely missing (and longing for) while living in Miami. We sauntered around Santa Lucia for a while longer enjoying the scenery, and eventually made our way back to the urban pandemonium.

We’ll be leaving Tegucigalpa tomorrow afternoon as we make our way toward the coast, where we’ll spend two weeks island hopping, scuba diving (my first time!), and visiting close friends. Our first stop is in San Pedro Sula, where we’ll stay with family for about a week. We have unpacked and rearranged our backpacks too many times to count, and are finally ready to begin the first leg of our expedition. Bring it on!

Tuesday, July 10, 2012

First Week in CA

Homemade pupusas
Fresh peeled coconut
It’s been a great week so far here in Tegus, spent mostly with family, relaxing and enjoying how time seems to have slowed to a crawl for us. We’ve been waking each morning to the light sounds of the spinning fan and the breeze drifting in through the open window, not to mention the barking of stray dogs and the morning call of neighborhood roosters. We also hear the calls of street vendors, selling plump, ripe avocados and papayas as big as my head. Fernando’s mom, Carolina, has been nothing short of an angel with us, preparing an elaborate breakfast each morning, complete with hot tea, guanabana juice freshly squeezed from her tree, homemade refried beans, fresh cream and salty cheeses, hardboiled eggs, fresh papaya, and let’s not forget an amazingly creamy, tangy guacamole made from her own limes and the same plump avocados sold to her by the singing vendor in the early morning. After a quick warm shower, we’ve been out the door and off to visit his grandmothers and cousins, which usually means enjoying a cup of rich black coffee while the smell of lunch cooking fills the room.


We’ve been laying low in the evenings, but Saturday night was a great exception as Fernando was scheduled to headline a big annual party, ElectronikZone Fest. We set out with his sister and sister-in-law, meeting up with several of his longtime friends. It was warm inside, so we hung around the entrance in the cool night air talking amongst ourselves until our favorite DJ went on, then it was time to make our way to the front row to dance and shout our hearts out with all his other fans (trust me, he has plenty of them here). After a successful set, we mingled for a while then headed to a friend’s house, where we spent countless hours playing Rock Band (namely The Beatles!), singing painfully loud and out of key. Needless to say we found ourselves crawling into bed as the roosters welcomed the rising sun, and were all left without a voice the following day.
ElectronikZone Fest


Luis Fer
Tati
Last night we made our way to Fernando’s brother’s place to share a few drinks and visit his niece and nephew, who are 5 and 7, respectively. Not only are they absolutely adorable, but also are extremely creative, polite and affectionate. They spent most of the evening working on their drawings for us and wouldn’t let Tia Marisa or Tio Fernando walk into the room for fear their surprise for us would be ruined. After presenting us with elaborate images of butterflies and Spiderman, we cuddled with them for a while and they made us promise to bring them new crayons to create more drawings for us to put up on our (nonexistent) fridge. Have I mentioned how much we LOVE these kids?!

Mami Telma
After a “lighter” breakfast of sweet oatmeal and green tea this morning, we headed a few miles outside of the city to visit Fernando’s grandmother, who welcomed us, as always, with black coffee and sweets. Her small house sits high on a mountain, surrounded by clucking chickens, skinny stray dogs, and roaming brown cows. We sat with her a while, taking photos and sharing details of our Miami life. On our way back home, we parked on a street overlooking the city, and stood for a while snapping photos and taking in the views of both the surrounding mountains and the busy city below.
Tegus outlook
Wild goat
Homebrewed coffee

















Friday, July 6, 2012

Home Sweet Home!


After years of dreaming, planning, working and wishing, we have finally arrived! We have waited for this day to come for a very long time, and are excited to see what lies ahead of us on this amazing journey through Central America. After selling our things, leaving our day jobs, and basically disconnecting ourselves from our Miami lives, we are more than prepared to make our way through the beautiful landscapes that surround us. For the next six months, from Guatemala to Panama, we're setting out to explore Mayan ruins, coastal Caribbean beach towns, some of the best scuba diving sites in the world,  active volcanoes, lush jungles, and fertile mountains rich with coffee and fruit. 

Our flight was short and sweet; the two hours sped by as we enjoyed endless mimosas and fresh halibut in our comfy seats. The landing at Toncontin is never entirely smooth though considering the short runway and the fact that the city's airport essentially lies within a valley surrounded by hazy mountains. You can hear the sighs of relief as the wheels touch down and the plane finally comes to an abrupt halt.
Tegucigalpa at night-view from Fernando's backyard

We arrived in Tegucigalpa, Honduras yesterday afternoon and were met by a cool breeze and Fernando's loving family. We drove to his parents's house where they prepared fresh lemonade and tacos (Carolina makes a delicious potato and tomato puree just for me!), and soon more friends and family joined. We spent the evening watching old family videos and sharing drinks (vodka and apple juice mmm), reminiscing on their childhood and good times. 

We spent the day today lounging around the house and recovering from a cold, sipping tea and catching up online. One of the things we love about being here is that you can buy fresh foods from home. People drive and walk by selling handmade tortillas and freshly baked pan de coco (coconut bread, which is AMAZING!), and all you have to do is walk outside with a few lempiras and you have some fresh, yummy food at your doorstep. It's very cool out tonight, and we were sitting out back on the patio earlier admiring the view of the lights of the city under a bright grey moon.
Selling pan de coco in the street